La Tortuga (French)

1-5-22 Koraibashi, Chuo-ku, Osaka/06-4706-7524/11:30-14:00&17:30-22:00/Closed on Sunday/Yen 6000/8 pickles /¥¥¥

Savory and hearty country fare for urban gourmands.

Kitahama, the Wall Street of Osaka, seems to be rapidly becoming a mecca for discerning restaurant-goers. Although it might easily be overlooked (there are only 20 table seats, and 9 at the counter), we think La Tortuga, ("tortoise" in French), is one of the better new restaurants there. The decor is stylish and cozy and the service, though pleasant, was not fawning. But it is really the food that sets Tortuga apart. Our friend warned us the portions would be huge and insisted we order just a few dishes to share. Usually Tortuga's tiny kitchen doesn't accept a la carte orders from large groups, but he persuaded the chef to allow it. As starters for the six of us he ordered "country pate", "tuna tartar with capers" and "serrano ham." Although it took a long time (we were warned it would) each appetizer was delicious when it finally arrived. The 3cm pate slab shamed the stingy slices we've been served elsewhere, yet it was barely enough to whet three appetites, nevermind pacify six. Other starters were also ample and tasty but not "huge." Perhaps our appetites were larger than our friend was accustomed to, we chided. But then the three main dishes came. It was all we could do to finish them, and (to make a long story short) well worth the effort to do so. Each was as savory as it was hearty. For example the, "hobo (white fish) a al acqua pazza" is a whole fish stewed in the tomato-based sauce a la Italian. "African guinea bird in cocotte" is a juicy and ever so tender fowl(half) cooked in a big cocotte pot (30 cm long). We were impressed, not to mention stuffed. This is one restaurant to which we intend to return soon.

Food: 8 Service: 7 Ambience: 6 Total: 8 pickles

No English menu.

How to get there: Get off at Sakaisuji Kitahama stn (Mitsukoshi exit). SMBC bank is next to Mitsukoshi Dept store on Sakaisuji st. Pass the bank and turn right at the corner. Walk about 500 m and you find the restaurant on your right.

GOZO (Spanish Tapas)

Hiraichi Building 1F, 1-6-11 Hirano-cho, Chuo-ku, Osaka/06-6204-6606/15:00-27:00/Yen 2500-5000/6 pickles /¥¥

Ole Ole Ole. a real tapas bar amid office buildings in Osaka.

All too often, Japanese attempts to import food concepts result in abomination. But Gozo has succeeded in bringing Tapas to Osaka. Your first hint is 4 or 5 Serrano hams hanging over the counter. The second is the several pans of different(!) paella. The third is the impassable throng of customers jamming this casual, narrow bar space. It's bit hard to find, but if you are working in Osaka, it is worth searching out. We went at 6:00 pm on a Tuesday and were surprised by the crowd. There are not many stools on which to sit, and none that are a safe distance from the constant traffic of sizzling dishes. But as long as you are not averse to crowds, or eating while standing up, Gozo may be an option. It is great before dinner, for a light supper, or after an unsatisfying dinner portion somewhere else. Why. they even have a good selection of Spanish wines and sherries. Tapas ranges from 300 to 2000. Be careful, it adds up!

Food: 7 Service: 5 Ambience: 6 Total: 6 pickles

Bilingual menu Spanish/Japanese.

How to get there: Get off at No5 Exit of Sakaisuji-sen Kitahama Stan (This takes you in front of Mitsukoshi Dept Store). Walk two blocks down South and turn left at Hirano-cho 1 crossing (You can see San-in Godo Bank on the opposite side of the street). It's on the second block on your right. If you're from Midosuji, turn left at Hirano-machi 3 crossing (mid-point between Yodoyabashi and Honmachi) and go 7 or 8 blocks. It's on your right.

Carbon (Spanish)

Sumitomo Shoji Yodoyabashi Bldg 1F, 4-4-12 Kitahama, Chuo-ku, Osaka/06-6220-4848/11:30-14:00&17:30-24:00/Closed on Sunday/Yen 6000-10000/7 pickles /¥¥¥

Even jet-setters spoiled by stylish restaurants of major international cities may feel pleased with this new Spanish restaurant in downtown Osaka.

El Poniente "Carbon" is in Yodoyabashi, an office area one block from Midosuji -- not a first class location for restaurants. But, step inside and you may breath a sigh of relief, as we did, to at last find a bustling, grown-up crowd in a room with a sophisticated international sensibility. At least there is one place in Western Japan where being worldly has an edge over young and cute (or at least so we would like to think).

Carbon offers no non-sense Spanish food with an emphasis on grills. Try Jamon Serrano(Spanish ham) or Quesa manchego (cheese) while you are waiting for them to sear something. The house pates are particularly good with the tasty Spanish wine selection. We had grilled quail, grilled vegetables (served with anchovy/black olive sauce), and grilled beef (oven-roasted and lightly warmed in olive oil just before being served). All dishes were quickly washed down with a warm Spanish red. Carbon offers 4500 yen and 7500 yen courses, but we found the a la carte approach rewarding. For the sporting, there is a standing/mingling bar, of the sort that is all but impossible to find in Japan, where one can wait for a date - or trade-up if made to wait too long.

Food: 8 Service: 6 Ambience: 7 Total: 7 pickles

Bilingual menu Spanish/Japanese.

How to get there: It's behind Sumitomo Bldg in Yodoyabashi. Get off at No.10 Exit of Subway Yodoyabashi Stn. Walk two blocks towards South (to Shinsaibashi direction) and turn Right. Turn left at the first corner and it's on your right.