August 13, 2004
The Garden Oriental Soshuen (Fusion)
4-7-28 Sumiyoshi Yamate, Higashi Nada ku, Kobe/ 078-851-9898 / Lunch 11:30〜15:00/Dinner 18:00〜22:30/Yen 7500 / 7 pickels / ¥¥
An Asian retreat in 5-min walk vicinity from Hankyu Mikage station.
This restaurant is a sister restaurant of "The House of Pacific" in Kitano (see our review!). It was originally built as a second house for a Japanese zaibatsu family in 1934 and then converted into a Chinese restaurant after WWII before being remodeled into its present form in 2001. On entering, you climb several wide dark-wood steps (in the evening they put small tea candles on those steps) to find a big house standing behind a well-manicured Japanese garden. The effect is dramatic, particularly with tiki torches and candles in the evening. (It was another hot summer day when I went, and could easily imagine we were in Bali!). Inside has something of the feel of a Japanese house furnished by expats, but it's not overdone and quite tasteful. Separated from the main dining areas is a bar where you can even enjoy a post-prandial cigar. They also have a second floor, but it seems that is mainly for wedding parties -- which they promote agressively on their website.
Unfortunately, the Garden Oriental is one of those fashionable places that puts more emphasis on "total experience" than food. All dishes I tried were very good, and were well presented, but nothing was stunning or memorable. and service was not as good as its sister restaurant. The dishes are eclectic, though mainly French influenced. Mainstream fare includes "foie gras sautee with marsala wine sauce", "beef carpaccio with semi-dried tomato and caper salsa", "potato gnocci with gorgonzola sauce", "grilled whole fish with lemon and olives", and "lamb roast with dried strawberry sauce". In addition to reasonably priced a la carte options, dinner courses start at 6500 yen (including 8 dishes!).
Despite our quibbles with the food and service, the Garden Oriental still manages to deliver a romantic evening that is likely to please all but the most demanding couples. English menu available. Some English spoken.
Food: 6.5 Service: 6 Ambience: 8 Total: 7 pickels
How to get there: Walk towards mountains for 5 min from Hankyu Mikage Station. Right after you see the fire station on your left, you see the entrance on your right.
