The Garden Oriental Soshuen (Fusion)

4-7-28 Sumiyoshi Yamate, Higashi Nada ku, Kobe/ 078-851-9898 / Lunch 11:30〜15:00/Dinner 18:00〜22:30/Yen 7500 / 7 pickels / ¥¥

An Asian retreat in 5-min walk vicinity from Hankyu Mikage station.

This restaurant is a sister restaurant of "The House of Pacific" in Kitano (see our review!). It was originally built as a second house for a Japanese zaibatsu family in 1934 and then converted into a Chinese restaurant after WWII before being remodeled into its present form in 2001. On entering, you climb several wide dark-wood steps (in the evening they put small tea candles on those steps) to find a big house standing behind a well-manicured Japanese garden. The effect is dramatic, particularly with tiki torches and candles in the evening. (It was another hot summer day when I went, and could easily imagine we were in Bali!). Inside has something of the feel of a Japanese house furnished by expats, but it's not overdone and quite tasteful. Separated from the main dining areas is a bar where you can even enjoy a post-prandial cigar. They also have a second floor, but it seems that is mainly for wedding parties -- which they promote agressively on their website.

Unfortunately, the Garden Oriental is one of those fashionable places that puts more emphasis on "total experience" than food. All dishes I tried were very good, and were well presented, but nothing was stunning or memorable. and service was not as good as its sister restaurant. The dishes are eclectic, though mainly French influenced. Mainstream fare includes "foie gras sautee with marsala wine sauce", "beef carpaccio with semi-dried tomato and caper salsa", "potato gnocci with gorgonzola sauce", "grilled whole fish with lemon and olives", and "lamb roast with dried strawberry sauce". In addition to reasonably priced a la carte options, dinner courses start at 6500 yen (including 8 dishes!).

Despite our quibbles with the food and service, the Garden Oriental still manages to deliver a romantic evening that is likely to please all but the most demanding couples. English menu available. Some English spoken.

Food: 6.5 Service: 6 Ambience: 8 Total: 7 pickels

How to get there: Walk towards mountains for 5 min from Hankyu Mikage Station. Right after you see the fire station on your left, you see the entrance on your right.

La Post (Tapas/French/Italian)

3-3-14 Motoyama Kita cho Higashinada-ku, Kobe/078-452-8766/11:00-15:30,17:30-21:30/¥3000/6 pickles/¥

The tapas wave breaks in Okamoto.

The global "Tapas" tsunami has finally broken on the shores of Kansai and washed up as far as the slopes of Okamoto. Twenty years ago La Post was a tiny French bistro favored by the local college students (including yours truly). But on a recent visit I was pleased to find the place transformed, with dishes ranging from 200 to 500 yean, including the likes of "artichoke in olive oil", "sun-dried tomato in olive oil", "ratatouille", "hot potato with chilli sauce", "fried calamari", and "tortilla (Spanish omlette)". They also have paella, grills, pasta and pizza. Although most dishes appear as indistinguishable smudges, a photo menu takes some of the mystery out of ordering. We sampled several tapas dishes, one grill dish, one pasta dish and, of course, a pitcher of sangria. The service was perfunctory and the surrealist murals on the wall are not for everyone; but the food was quite satisfactory and filling. At 3000 yen apiece, one cannot complain - unless of course you are unlucky enough to be seated, as we were, at the counter where an overbearing odor is emitted by dangling legs of mouldering ham. There is a limit to how far rustic touches should be taken. Nevertheless we'll be pleased to try this place again soon.

Food: 6.5 Service: 6 Ambience: 5 Total: 6 pickles

How to get there: It's on Yamate Kansen road. Get off at Hankyu Okamoto Stn or JR Settsu Motoyama. Go to Yamate Kansen road and walk for 5 minutes towards East. It's on you right side. Map

Lucca (Italian)

3-6-23 Motoyama Nakamachi Higashinada-ku, Kobe/078-436-7155/ /18:00-Closed Tue/ Yen 5000/6 pickels / ¥¥

A corner Italian eatery in Settsu Motoyama.

The locals must be conspiring to keep Lucca to themselves, because despite having our ear to the ground it escaped our attention until quite recently. This restaurant is simple, but good. There is a counter for 8 and tables for no more than 20. Aromatic steam wafts from an open kitchen, and roughly finished egg-wash walls convey a rustic, almost familial warmth.

Lucca's dishes are uncomplicated but savory. Their appetizers range from authentically Italianate parma ham and marinated octopus to traditionally French foie gras sautee. Usually there are 5 or 6 pastas from which to choose, classics like spaghetti with mushroom cream sauce to the more Japanized dishes such as "peperocini mizuna (Kyoto veg) and flying fish eggs (a local delicacy)". The main courses consist primarily of rustic fare such as roasted young chicken and grilled lamb. Everything is simple and hearty. Those who know real Italian food in Italy, however, may question the authenticity.

Like the food, Lucca's wine list is also Franco Italian. Decent wines can be had by the glass and half-bottle and we found the prices quite reasonable. Service is efficient, but there is no English menu. Our main criticism is the location - this is the kind of place to you want around the corner. Because it is popular with the locals, you had best make reservations.

Food: 6 Service: 6 Ambience: 6 Total: 6 Pickels

HOW TO GET THERE: By car - On Route 2, turn to North (towards mountains side) at Shouji crossing (Yanase car dealer showcase is at the corner). It's on your left in 30 m. By train - Get off at JR Settsu motoyama. 10 min walk from the station.

Kyoraika (French)*

Orchid Court 1F, 2-7-3, Nishiokamoto, Higashinada-ku, Kobe / 078-431-8117 / Yen 10000 / 8 pickels / ¥¥/¥¥¥

'Nouvelle cuisine francaise' at its best in Sumiyoshi

Due to the name of the restaurant one may expect some kind of fusion cuisine, but don't be mislead. This is pure French food, and we are glad to say at its best.

Kyoraika offers both 'a la carte' and set menus at Yen 3500, 6000, 8000 and 10000 that change every month. We took the Yen 6000 menu, consisting of an amuse geule, 2 appetizers, fish, a sherbet, meat, a small cheese plate, desserts from the trolley and coffee or tea. Not bad for Yen 6000! Especially considering the quality of the food. It's flawlessly prepared and some of the dishes are true delights.

The wine list offers a well-chosen selection in various price categories. Unfortunately the half bottle that we chose and the red wine by the glass were out of stock. But they made more than up for it by opening a full bottle instead and serving us half, and letting us choose another red wine from the list and serving it by the glass. This episode already gives you an indication of the level of service to expect. At Kyoraika everything is there in the right place at the right time without noticing it, and this is what good service is all about.

If there is something to criticize, then it's the ambience. Modern, clean and stylish, it however feels a bit cold and empty with the high ceilings, especially when there are few diners as in our case. But all in all a very pleasant dining experience.

Update Sep. 04: Kyoraika seems to be an example of consistency. We can gladly confirm our rating, which places Kyoraika right at the top of Kansai's fine dining places. We've yet to find better food here, especially at such price.

Food: 8 Service: 8.5 Ambience: 7 Total: 8 pickels

Bilingual menu French/Japanese. Some English spoken.

HOW TO GET THERE: On route 2 at Sumiyoshi River, coming from Ashiya turn right into the street just before the river (from Kobe turn left just after crossing the river). Turn right after crossing the JR line and look for the 'P' sign at Orchid Court. When you found the car park, Kyoraika is right next to it.

Brasiliano (Churrasco)

3F, Mosaic 1-6-1, Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe / 078-360-2996 / Yen 3000 / 5.5 pickels / ¥

A carnivore's paradise - all you can eat for Yen 1980 at Mosaic/Harborland

Imagine you're a meat lover on a vegeterian diet. You've been dreaming about all sorts of meat, juicy, tasty and nicely barbecued. This is where your dream comes true!

Churrasco means that different kinds of meat, mainly beef, are BBQ'ed on a skewer. The skewer is brought to your table and the meat freshly sliced on to your plate. Brasiliano is all you can eat, and an unbelievable bargain at Yen 1980. On skewers they serve 3 different kinds of beef, pork, chicken, sausages and pineapple as a dessert. On top you have access to a buffet shared with their Chinese restaurant next door.

My recommendation is: start with some rice and the Brazilian feijoada bean stew, and then focus on what is really good there - the meat. It's tender, juicy, well seasoned and keeps coming, until you set the signal to red (look for the red/green rod on your table). Wash the food down with a beer or some Caipirinhas.

They have some Brazilians in the service who try to create a casual & fun atmosphere. The ambience is quite sterile. The best seats are on the terrace in summer.

English menu & English speaking staff available.

Food: 6 Service: 5 Ambience: 4 Total: 5.5

Lapin (Teppanyaki)

Daini Shinko Bldg 2F, 1-5-14 Okamoto Higashinada-ku,
Kobe/Tel.078-412-4649/11:00-14:00,17:00-21:00/5-7000yen/6 pickles

Gaijin-friendly and nothing if not theatrical, this Teppanyaki spot near the station in Okamoto is a crowd pleaser.

The chef at Lapin may be on disciplinary leave from Cirque du Soleil because, in addition to searing delicious cuts of beef before your eyes, he persists in regaling diners by juggling pepper grinders and indulging in eyelash singeing pyrotechnics. Think Benni Hanna. The meat is top-notch and the taste is very good, though not quite brilliant. The wooden room succeeds in being both intimate and airy; but with only about 20 counter seats, reservations are strongly suggested. Although the chef doesn't speak much english, there is an english menu and somehow everyone manages to understand one another. At any rate, we had a good time here. This one rates 6 and 1/2 pickles out of a perfect 10 - an ideal place to take sushi-wary friends visiting from abroad - unless of course they are vegetarians.

Food: 6 Service: 7 Ambience: 6 Total: 6 pickles

English menu/English speaking staff available.
HOW TO GET THERE: Located in the fashionable alleys near Hankyu Okamoto.