Brasserie Pierrot (French)

La Myuro Bldg. B1F 19-13 Ishibane cho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo/0798-71-1088/11:30am-14:30pm/17:30-22:00pm/Yen 5000-10000(credit cards OK)/7 pickels /¥¥

Accessible French in Shukugawa/Kurakuen

The chef of Brasserie Pierrot is a protege of the Chef of the extravagant Chez Ino in Ginza. Pierrot achieved some success by being among the first l area restaurants to introduce a pre-fix menu. Dinners start from 3000 yen (appetizer, main, coffe/tea) but, because the portions are humble, we recommend the 4500 yen course with appetizer, small soup, pasta, main course, dessert, and coffee/tea. Big eaters might still be waiting for the grand finale when the check comes. We tried grilled langoustine, pie of foie gras and porcini mushrooms, pasta pepperoncino, duck with Japanese poireau, roasted lamb, chocolate soufflee with vanilla ice cream and creme brulee. Everything exceeded our expectations. Pierrot also has a reasonably priced selection of mostly French and Italian wines. Service there is always personable. Unfortunately their English speaking waitress is leaving to have a baby. We hope she returns soon - all the daily specials are in Japanese. (Menu in Japanese/French.)

Food: 7 Service: 7 Ambience: 7 Total: 7 Pickels

HOW TO GET THERE: From Iwazono Tunnel, go straight. It's on your right after you pass the third big crossings for 50 meters. You can see French flags hoisted. If you're coming from Hankyu Kurakuen Stn, take the big street that goes toward Ashiya. Turn right at the second traffic light (second big crossing). After you pass the next big crossing and go for about 50 m, it's on your right.

Fontegara (Italian)

5-20 Hinoike-cho, Nishinomiya / 0798-71-7750/11:30-14:30/18:00-21:30/Closed on Tue (+1 Wed a month)/6 pickels / ¥¥

Why risk life and limb on a visit to Napoli when great Napolitan pizza can be found in Kurakuen?

There's nothing exquisite about this tiny pizzeria, but it does deliver on its promise of "real good pizza in Napoli style." In fact, there is not much on the menu - only several pizza and pastas. But for those evenings in Kurakuen when you don't need fancy food and prefer something basic and delicious, a simple dinner at Fontegara with a bottle of wine and a pizza margerita may be your best best bet. It's good for lunch too. Fontegara's pizza dough is made only from flour, water and salt. After kneading, they let the dough rise for over 24 hours, then flatten it by hand into a chewy crust. Like the pizza, everything about Fontengara, including the decor and service, gives an unsophisticated but warm homespun feeling. But be warned, they serve only one pizza at a time - it seems their oven is rather small. While you wait you can brush up on your European geography by checking out the maps that adorn the walls.

Food: 7 | Service: 5 | Ambience: 6 | Total:6

Menu in Japanese

HOW TO GET THERE: From Hankyu Kurakuen go straight the big street towards west. Go 50 m after passing the second big junction. It's on your left. Parking available. (It's next to Daiten sushi restaurant and a children's boutique.)

I Venticelli (Italian)

1F Adole-Kurakuen, 24-16 Hinoike-cho, Nishinomiya / 0798-74-0244 / 11:00-14:00 / 17:30-22:00 / Closed on Wed / Yen 9000 / 6.5 pickels / ¥¥

An interesting Italian dining option in Kurakuen

Takuji Asai, the chef at I Venticelli, lived and worked in Italy for 2 years after being educated at renowned Italian restaurants in Japan. It shows, not only in the food. You'll immediately be able to spot him in the open kitchen.

The ambience is modern and the food ranges from classic Italian fare like delicious home made Spaghetti with lamb ragout to more adventurous creations, including Italian-Japanese fusions. Although you may be in for a culinary surprise, his quest for creativity may also result in dishes pleasing some palates, but which to the majority of diners lack harmony and balance.

Nevertheless, we usually went for the Yen 4500 course (plus surcharge for some dishes), which included appetizer, pasta, main course and dessert, and always left the place satisfied. The service is good and friendly, patiently explaining you the special menu, which unfortunately is available in Japanese only. The regular menu is bilingual Italian / Japanese. The wine list boasts an adequate selection of Italian wines.

No English spoken.

Food: 6 Service: 7 Ambience: 6.5 Total: 6.5

HOW TO GET THERE: If you come from Ashiya, go through the tunnel and turn left into the small street just before the traffic light. Go straight. I Venticelli is on the corner of the 5th street to the right, just before you come to Hill Side Lane on the left hand side.

Daiten Zushi (Sushi)

Hinoike-cho, Nishinomiya/0798-71-2116/11:30～& 16:00? closed when sold out/5000/6 pickles

No-nonsense sushi at a very reasonable price.

Unless your company is picking up the tab, it takes nerves of steel to order top-notch sushi. But at Daiten Zushi in Kurakuen you can find good sushi at a fraction of what it costs in Ginza. For that reason it has been long been a favorite of local Japanese. The restaurant opens at 3 PM and by 5 PM it is packed - especially on weekends. By 7 PM most of the "neta" (fish) is gone and they close the store. Connoisseurs report that, relative to top-notch Edo-mae (Tokyo-style) sushi, Daiten's "shari" (rice) is a bit sweet and the balance of neta to shari is ever so slightly off. Whatever. Even for those few on whom such subtleties are not lost, the terrific value more than offsets any shortcomings. In addition to the most finicky fish lovers, Daiten Zushi can also satisfy big appetites, fast eaters, and even kids (provided they eat sushi at all). Although there's no English menu, or English speaking staff, if you bone-up on basic sushi words like "toro" or "uni" you will do fine.

Food: 7 Service: 5 Ambience: 5 Total 6

HOW TO GET THERE: from Hankyu Kurakuen go straight the big street towards west. Go 50 m after passing the second big junction. It's on your left. Parking available.

Tapas (Mediterranean)

Roseo B1, 10-45 Kudegaya-cho, Nishjinomiya / 0798-73-4455 / 11:00-23:00 (Sat - 01:00) / Yen 4000 / 6 pickels / ¥

Tapas - Culinary delights in mini size at mini price in Shukugawa

The name of the restaurant is borrowed from Spanish 'Tapas'. A Tapas Bar in Spain is a place that you visit before dinner where you are served drinks plus dozens of small dishes.

Tapas has taken this concept to another level. The cuisine is Spanish inspired, but features many unique creations that one may call 'new Mediterranean'. The menu consists of appetizers, salads, meat, fish, pasta, pizza and desserts, around 30 dishes altogether. They are all available in 'Tapas' size and regular size, with prices between Yen 500 - Yen 650 for the small size. We usually manage to eat 8 - 10 Tapas sized dishes.

Tapas is one of our favorites, and everything we tasted there was good. The food is certainly creative and makes for some surprising culinary experiences. Also the more classic fare like risotto or pizza is recommendable. In terms of taste for the buck Tapas is unsurpassed. Where else can you get such a delightful dish like slightly charcoaled tuna in a coconut curry sauce with asparagus for as little as Yen 600?

The wine list is small, but offers inexpensive wines for casual drinking that go well with the food. The service is basic, but efficient and quick. The ambience is modern and simple, yet tasteful.

English menu available, some English spoken.

Food: 7 Service: 5 Ambience: 6 Total 6

HOW TO GET THERE: from Hankyu Kurakuen turn left and left again at the first big junction. After 300 m you will find Tapas on the right in the building with the big colorful 'Roseo' flags.

Tengayu (Japanese)

Umehara Bldg 1F, 13-21 Kikutani-cho, Nishinomiya/(0798) 72-3647/11:30～14:30 17:30～22:00/6000yen/5 pickles

A cosy tempura spot in Kurakuen.

Behind a diminutive facade with parking space for three Minis, Tengayu is a perfect place for friends, families, and well-worn couples to enjoy tempura. Duck under the rabbit calligraphied noren to find a warm and spacious wooden interior with a counter tended by a friendly friar - make that fryer. About \5000 buys you a filling course with lightly fried shrimp, eel, and veggies - with enough spare change left over for the obligatory beer or two. Choose from three anthills of seasoned salt to liven your fried bits, or douse them in dashi with grated daikon as you please. In August we were treated to fried ume-boshi (Japan's infamous pickled plums), which squirt scalding sour juice to not unpleasant effect, and presumably other seasonal specialties can be had throughout the year. Although higher-flying tempura-ya can probably be found for power-dating, Tengaya makes a comfortable choice for a relaxed evening of food and conversation.

Food 5: Service 5; Ambience 5 Total 5 pickles

HOW TO GET THERE: From Hankyu Kurakuen Stn, take a big street and go to west. The building is on your left at the 2nd big crossing. The flower shop is next to it.

Ristorante Trenta (Italian)

Vintage Shukugawa Bldg 2F 5-44 Kasumi-cho, Nishinomiya/0798-22-5111/11:30
～14:00(L.O)18:00～22:00(L.O)/7000/4 pickles

(Sorry, this restaurant was closed down in Jan 2004)
Ciao Trenta.

We want back to confirm our impressions of Trenta. As before, it appears to have potential. It is a casual but stylish room with a big open kitchen, retro euro-pop tunes create a festive atmosphere, there is a nice view of Shukugawa's rococo church spires, and prima piatti like the capellini with octopus are undeniably delicious - all of which make Trenta's failure more tragic and infuriating. Ok, it was bad luck that I was seated in front of the flash-freezing airconditioner - I can forgive that. But the staff seemed flustered by and improvised in response to our most basic requests, such as for bread. We even had to rummage through their fridge because the wine list was in transition. When, finally, they brought me chicken instead of the duck I'd ordered, and it was rubbery, my good-will was exhausted. Maybe if they'd tried to make good at that point with a beg-your-pardon grappa, they could have turned it around; but instead we were slapped in the face by being made to wait for our check. I couldn't wait to leave. It is unhealthy to suppress feelings of frustration such as these. I vowed retribution, and here it is: service 2, food 5, ambience 6 pickles.

No English menu available. No English speaking staff.

HOW TO GET THERE: At the top of the hill near Hanku Shukugawa, on the third floor across the street from church.

Osteria Enoteca (Italian)

Lapport 2F, 6-5 Koshiki-Iwa-cho, Nishinomiya/0798-73-3808/11:30-14:00(LO)17:30-21:30 (LO)/Closed on Wed(Holidays open)/Yen15000-30000/6 pickles

Italian haut cuisine boasting the biggest Italian wine selection in West Japan.

(Revised 2004.05.05) At a time when overly casual and Japanized Italian restaurants are mushrooming, attempts at "ristorante" level cuisine are always welcome. Despite a rugged Italian country decor, Osteria Enoteca promises an experience worthy of its reputation as one of the top Italian restaurants in Kansai - but does it deliver? The chef is a well-known and very capable sommlier. He'll also makes fresh pasta right in front of you, but on a busy night you might prefer he stay in the understaffed kitchen. Table service is not very professional either, but maybe that's what keeps Enoteca from seeming stuffy. But the big down side is that it is quite costly. Though some consider Enoteca the pinnacle of Italian cuisine, others feel it is highly overrated. As for us, well the truth is we had a respectable dinner there several years ago but honestly haven't been motivated to return. For this kind of money we expect extravagant ambience, prime service, and really spectacular food. Nevertheless, for those with pockets deep enough to explore it, the cave seems awe-inspiring.

Food: 7.5 Service 5.5 Ambience: 6 Total: 6 pickels

HOW TO GET THERE: 2nd floor of the 2nd building towards Kurakuen from Kurakuen Ikari Supermarket - next to the flower shop.

Seta Tei (French)

15-7 Minamikoshikiwa-cho, Nishinomiya / 0798-73-0777 / 11:30-14:30 17:30-21:00 (LO) / 9000 Yen / 7 pickels / ¥¥/¥¥¥

Hints of excellence in this small 'Franco-Japonaise' restaurant in Kurakuen.

Seta Tei is run by the owner and chef, Mr. Seta, and has been around for 20 years now, an eternity in restaurant's terms. Not surprisingly, as we found out. Seta Tei has only 6 tables in an ambience that feels more like a living room than a restaurant. The wine list is small and offers French Wines from Yen 6000.

You can choose among 4 different course menus, priced from Yen 3500 to Yen 10000. In what Mr. Seta calls "Franco-Janponaise", you may expect predominantly French cuisine, with Japanese influences, ambitious and partially innovative. The Yen 5500 course includes 2 appetizers, one main course, a sorbet and desserts from the trolley. Some dishes can be surprisingly delicious, others are less exciting, though never bad.

At Seta Tei the focus clearly is on the food, although neither service, nor ambience disappoint. Since the restaurant usually caters to Japanese customers, don't come too late. Otherwise you'll be served 6 dishes in 50 minutes, like on our last visit.

No English menu, no English speaking staff.

Food: 7 Service: 6.5 Ambience: 6.5 Total: 7 pickels

HOW TO GET THERE: If you come from Ashiya, turn right at the 3rd traffic light after Iwazono tunnel into Kurakuenguchidori. You will find Seta-Tei after ~ 150 m on the left.

L'avenir China (Chinese)

Shukugawa KS Bldg 1F 10-21 Hagoromo-cho, Nishinomiya/0798-26-3656/11～14.30/17.30～22/Closed on Monday/>JPY5000/7 pickles

A nouvele Chinoise find less than five minutes walk from Hankyu Shukugawa.

L'avenir serves up high-quality, spicy Szechuan - a rare pleasure in Japan. But far from being confined by tradition, the chef also creates sensational fusion dishes by exploring such un-Chinese ingredients as fresh basil and the cheek of tuna. No matter how adventurously we order, we unfailingly finish with L'avenir's fabulous spicy noodle soup. To wash it down, there is a fine selection of Chinese liquor and teas, and even a few wines that suit the food surprisingly well. The decor is modern. Spare white walls with beige brown accents are hung with a series of paintings featuring oddly engaging effusions of color and figuration. But there is no english menu and the chalkboard of specials will test your Japanese. The service, though sincere, is discrete bordering on inattentive. Perhaps there aren't enough staff, or they are shy - though they needn't be. This place is good and fills up quickly.

No English menu, no Enlgish speaking staff available.

Food 8; Service 6; Atmosphere;6

HOW TO GET THERE: Turn right from the main gate of the Hankyu Shukugawa and proceed up the hill. The restaraunt is on the street behind the church, before you reach the small railroad overpass.

Il Passo (Italian)

Quarter Barrel 2F, 11-11 Kizuyama-cho, Nishinomiya/17:00～26:00(25:30(L.O))/
0798-71-5572/Closed on Wed/JPY5000-10000/7 pickles

Il Passo is one of our favorites, a tiny Italian grill with only about 10 counter seats in Shukugawa/Kurakuen.

(Very unfortunately, this restaurant will be closed by the end of March 2004 and re-open in Osaka in May 2004.)

Il Paso has none of the pretension or anxious ambition of a big restaurant. There are only refreshingly simple and expertly executed dishes served in a casual counter setting. This is the work of serious foodies, for serious foodies. At this tiny hole-in-the-wall, food preparation is a puppet show for which the counter has front-row seats. An arm's length away the chef hunches over a small charcoal grill and coaxes magic from fresh meat, fish, and vegetables - one dish at a time. It is time-consuming, but that's half the fun. The flavors here cross-fade from Lake Como to Lake Biwa, and can be delightfully original. Appetizers and pastas are never disappointing and the wine selection, though small, has obviously been compiled with the same concentrated passion as the ecstatically scribbled and nearly indecipherable chalkboard menu (if in doubt, try the lamb). The pleasure of an evening at Il Paso is almost illicit - like a lover's tryst - unless you have the bad luck to visit when boorish folk occupy the balance of the counter. Call ahead to be safe, and be prepared to order in Japanese. Chosen as one of most favorites by Zagat.
Food: 7 Service 7 Ambience: 7 Total: 7 pickels

HOW TO GET THERE: From Hankyu Kurakuen, turn left at the second big crossing. There's a building on the left corner of the second traffic light. The restaurant is on its 2nd fl. Parking available.